So last week I started a new bralette making project, from an old bra with a broken underwire. If you read the last post I had just got to the point of cutting my first toile. I made this one primarily to get the fitting of the cup right, but ended up making a couple of other changes too.
Here was my first draft in purple, with only one cup added. I didn't really think about the thickness of my fabric I was intending to use and this ended up being a little thick.
Originally I was intending to line my bralette with something as I believed it would be easier - lining it meant that I wouldn't have to face or hem the tiny raw edge in between the cups or the bottom edge - I wanted to focus instead on getting the lacing on the back right.
This is an odd angle, but as you can see, there was a little too much fabric in the cup area. Probably due to the great difference in the fabric used to make the original bra and the fabric that I used for the toile, I decided to loose an inch from the cups.
After trying your first draft on, I always scribble down the alterations I need to make for the making of the second. It's very rare that I get it right first time. If you can't see it, the piece of paper reads:
'- centre gore needs to be 1cm wide after sewing
- loose 1" off cup middle seam and follow alteration through upper cup section
- back side needs another 3" each side'
These are pretty self explanatory, the fabric between the two cups was a little wide and so it was wrinkling as there was too much fabric there. The cup alteration needed following through the upper piece and due to the non elastic nature of my intended fabric the back needed a bit more fabric to go over my back.
These are the changes to the cups, you can see here the original pieces in front (with the seam allowances cut off) and the new pieces on the lined paper behind. The difference is not too drastic, but you can clearly see the half an inch I've shaved off at the top of each piece.
My cup edits for my second toile. As you can see I've cut a chunk out of the Middle of the upper piece too.
Overall I think this process is pretty successful. From the first to the second draft I've only really changed the sizing of the cups. For my second draft I'm going to make the pattern in full, straps, lining, laces and all. This will make sure that I've covered all bases and will have a greater knowledge of the pattern when I come to make the final draft.
Whilst I've been busy enjoying sunny Sheffield my intended fabric has arrived! It's a linen, with quite a loose weave, which means it will be lovely and breathable in the summertime.
I'm going to make several with different details and fabrics as I love the shape and there are several things that I can alter that will make it look different with each change. I would love to have one with completely draped, triangular cups and another with a draped neckline.
I'm glad that I've decided to line it as my daisy linen is quite scratchy! Have you ever tried sewing a bralette? If so did you draft it yourself or did you buy a pattern?
Toni
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