Friday 15 May 2015

A New Project and New Bobbin Vows

They're here! Thank the sewing God upstairs!


My Janome bobbins have arrived from China and work wonderfully, look at the tiny little stitches I did here on a scrap. Look how beautiful they are! It's so great to have my machine up and running again. But what to sew with it?


I can finally start on my new fabrics that I bought from Fine Fabrics in Hillsborough last month. It's been a long time coming...I got a bit frustrated not being able to sew anything and well, went again and bought some more last week. (I know, that's not good, but I literally didn't have anything to sew with!) 

Because I've had a broken machine I've had a long time to think about my sewing technique. And because I've spent a weeks wages on fabric in the past month I've decided to change the way I sew, as I've got into some really silly lazy habits that must change! 

New Bobbin Vows:

1) I will oil my machine as much as I should do, as it is really worth the effort.

2) I will only use Janome bobbins with my machine.

3) I will try, when needed, to make a toile of the garment up before sewing it - I have always known this is the best way of getting something to fit you, and I have enough scrap fabric to do it, trust me! I am fed up of throwing something out due to the fact it's not right because I didn't make a toile first!

4) When I am making my own self-drafted clothing, I will sketch out my design before sewing - both on a croquis and as a practical working drawing, showing seam placements and details. Next year I'm going to be doing some serious sewing and fitting so good habits are needed, so I'm starting the process now!


So I've decided to re-line a waistcoat that's a bit too small for me in the back. Previous to this post I had taken the lining out and made a pattern, so today I could get straight down to cutting it out. I have this wonderful wool and mohair mix in a dark red colour, but think it's mixed with a synthetic just on the feel of it. 


I got a bit excited - and when I get excited about sewing my stuff gets everywhere!



Here's my initial stages, sewing the bust seam and pinning the back pleat. 



The neck curve sewn and the back pleat ironed - I didn't put a back facing on by accident as I was in a bit of a rush when making the pattern. The fabric is quite light and so I hope the weight won't pull it down!


Don't ask why I've sewn it in grey - it was the first colour I came to!


Clipping curves and showing off the lovely scissors my Dad got me for my birthday!



The lining of the front shown here, it was a bit tricky getting that corner in as (if you've ever noticed when taking commercial clothing apart) the outer's seam allowance seems to vary from half an inch to only a quarter. All my lining pieces are cut with half an inch around. I've got to the point where I can handle a quarter inch quite easily but when it varies it's confusing!



After sewing the lining to the outer, it's time to hand stitch that little opening you turn the waistcoat through. Aaand press!


Tada! Sorry about the photos, the light is decreasing as the sun goes down! Here's the front, with the back pleat seen, as well as the new back outer which I cut from the new fabric too.


I added a strip of fabric on the back. I was going to put a nice bit of cotton patterned ribbon on to add some contrast but didn't have any that was suitable! I also decided against a buckle, due to the lack of buckle and my desire to get the project finished. The strip is waist high and pulls the fabric in in the right place, it's just absent of a buckle. 

So Toni is back sewing folks! Have you ever had a problem with your machine? How did you cope without it?

Toni

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