Friday 13 March 2015

The History of Lingerie

So at the moment I'm researching the history of fashion for my foundation diploma, I was halfway through and decided to blog about it as I found it so imformative. The links between lingerie and world history are stronger than you'd think, from metal shortages in the wars influencing underwear to fabric technology innovating the 1920s. 


So we start off with the one of the oldest pieces of women's fashion - the corset. Considered to have been invented somewhere in the 16th century to sculpt the body into the desirable shape of the period the corset was made originally with whale bone, which is why we call 'boning' boning. I could do a whole timeline on the corset and how it changed from era to era, but I've decided to leave that out as it'd be a very long list. I'd like to think this is a brief-ish timeline of women's underwear.



This is a very modern photo, but in 1589 the knitting machine was invented to make stockings. Previously made by hand, this reduced the time it took to make them - and the cramp in your fingers!

In 1795 the hand stitched, quilted petticoat was born. Made from layers of fabric, these were so time consuming to make they were handed down though the family, and thought to be a very precious gift.


Steel crinolines were at their widest in 1860. Crinolines were cages, sometimes made from steel, that supported dresses from underneath. Later replaced by the petticoat, they were large and cumbersome, often causing sores due to their weight.


From 1870 the crinoline got smaller in circumference and longer at the back, eventually shrinking and developing into what we know as the bustle. Although iconic to the Victorian period the bustle didn't last as long as you might have thought, only lasting to the 1890s.

1890 saw the start of the decline in corset popularity, as women wanted to be more independent and freer in both their clothing and their political views (the suffragettes came together as one group in 1897) leading to ladies wanting more comfortable and movable clothing. 

In 1905 bustles were completely gone from woman's fashion, replaced by the 'long corset' for those who still wanted structured undergarments. For the young crowd, more liberated fashion was on it's way, accompanied by appropriate innovative underwear. 

The soft bra that we know today was first patented by Mary Phelps Jacob in 1914, and was popularised by the metal shortages in WWI, which meant that we didn't have the materials to make as many corsets as we could before the war.


In the 1920s silky, short petticoats (slips) were developed due to innovations in fabric technology. Stockings were now worn as a fashion item instead of just for warmth, made of silk or rayon they were worn to covered exposed flesh. Girdles became very popular to create the 'garçon' look of the day.


Camiknickers became popular in the 1920s as they worked well under the short dresses of the period. They remained popular in WWII as women started wearing more trousers and wanted something between their bits and the crotch seam!

In 1935 Warner introduced the first sizing for the modern brassiere, with only A B and C cup sizing.

1940s saw the French knicker becoming popular for ease of movement.


Unknown designer Dior revolutionised womenswear with his New Look in 1947. Waists returned, and sculptured girdles were needed to create the waspish waist seen in his new collection.

1950s saw pointy bras and and seamed stockings. Contrasting to the women of the 19th century who had to keep their sexuality under wraps, the girls of the 50s enhanced and exaggerated their figure, with form hugging basques becoming popular.


The 60s saw girlish babydoll nighties with matching chiffon knickers, made in sheer silks and chiffons. The tight, elasticated bodysuits were common sights as outerwear on catwalks and streets alike. The invention of the miniskirt by Mary Quant popularised the wearing of tights as opposed to stockings, meaning you could bend over and not flash your knickers! Looking back, modern bras shapes we see today were first recognisable in 60s Vogue.

The girly 60s gave way to a more sexy womanly image in the 70s, with lots of silk and lace. The late 70s saw the arrival of the more daring disco era, and we women had underwear to match, they were small, lacy and often sheer.


Thongs and G-strings were the thing in the 1980s, as well as the bodysuit, although I think this little black number worn by Cher would have overdone it for me personally.


Underwear became outerwear in the 90s, the most famous example being Jean Paul Gaultier's cone bra that he designed for Madonna. There was a minimalist approach to underwear for the first time - cotton knickers were in with branded waistbands such as Calvin Klein's peeking over the top of jeans, which is still seen today.


The 'Hello Boys' Wonderbra advert in 1994 saw crashed cars and broken bones as folks couldn't concentrate on the road. Later it got the reputation of the best outside advertisement of all time.


In the 2000s Agent Provocateur brought back sexiness with lacy knickers, stockings and bra sets. Modelled here by Kate Moss, Agent Provocateur is still in business today, and they're still pretty damn sexy.

In 2008 Wonderbra brought out their revolutionary vintage inspired collection, worn by Dita Von Teese. Corsets were suddenly sexy, the hourglass curve still desired by many women today.


2010s saw Victoria's Secret becoming the most popular underwear retailer for women. Their catwalk shows are watched by thousands either in the flesh or on TV. Their shows have varying themes from carnival to nature, but always feature lots of half naked ladies! 

So that's the lot. Outlines in fashion has changed consistently throughout the ages, and underwear has had to change pretty fast to keep up. If you have any other significant events to add in, email me at tartantonaay@gmail.com and I'll add them in.

Toni

No comments: